What is vermeil?

Vermeil, a precious material

Did you know that vermeil is a precious material? It consists of silver coated with gold—two precious metals whose prices are quoted on the market. This unique combination is considered precious in its own right. LAH vermeil is made with a 925 silver base and coated with 5 microns of 18-karat gold (750 fineness). In France, the Commercial Code (Article L832-8) reserves the term for silver coated with gold of at least 750 fineness, and regulations require a minimum thickness of 5 microns.

Vermeil or gold-plated jewelry: What’s the difference?

Vermeil and gold-plated jewelry have one thing in common: both are coated with a layer of gold. The difference comes down to two things: the thickness of that layer and the material underneath it.

First, thickness. In France, vermeil must have at least 5 microns of gold. For gold-plated jewelry, the law requires at least 3 microns. Below 3 microns, a piece of jewelry can only be called “gilded.” At LAH, we use vermeil: 5 microns of 18-karat gold (750 fineness).

Then there’s the base material. Vermeil is applied only to silver—in our case, 925 silver. Gold plating, on the other hand, doesn’t require a silver base: the metal underneath isn’t necessarily precious. With vermeil, the material beneath the gold layer is precious, too.

A thicker layer takes longer to wear away. But it won’t last forever, which is why we offer the first replating free of charge, with no time limit.

Why does LAH use 925 silver?

Like gold, silver is a precious material. It’s lighter and less expensive than gold, making it possible to create jewelry with larger, more sculptural forms.

Pure silver is too soft for jewelry, so it’s alloyed with another metal. That’s what 925 means: 92.5% silver.

How is our vermeil jewelry made?

Our jewelry is cast in two workshops, one near Tours and the other in the Paris region. We use lost-wax casting, an ancient molding technique for making jewelry.

The jewelry is then electroplated near Besançon in a workshop specializing in this type of gold plating.

The workshop then measures the gold layer with a spectrometer to ensure that at least 5 microns of gold have been applied to the jewelry.

Does vermeil wear off? How should you care for it?

Vermeil can wear down over time. Rings get the most wear because of the friction and handling they’re exposed to in everyday life. Even though the vermeil layer is thick—at least 5 microns—it’s impossible to predict when wear will expose the 925 silver underneath.

Gentle care will help your jewelry keep its shine, provided you avoid the sea, showers, swimming pools, and perfume. A cleaning cloth is included with purchases of €200 or more.

Your first replating is on us

Your first replating at LAH is free, with no time limit. It takes about 3 to 6 weeks for your jewelry to be returned with a new layer of vermeil.

For subsequent replatings, the electroplating cost depends on the piece’s volume and the price of gold when the piece is dropped off.

Frequently asked questions

What is vermeil?

Vermeil is a material made of silver coated with a layer of gold. In France, regulations require at least 5 microns of 18-karat gold (750 fineness) for a piece to be called vermeil. At LAH, all our vermeil is made with a 925 silver base.

What’s the difference between vermeil and gold-plated jewelry?

The thickness of the gold layer: at least 5 microns for vermeil and at least 3 microns for gold-plated jewelry. Vermeil is also applied only to silver. Below 3 microns, a piece of jewelry can only be called “gilded.”

Is vermeil gold or silver?

Both, but not mixed together: a 925 silver base coated with gold. Two precious materials, one layered over the other.

How do you care for vermeil jewelry?

Handle it gently. Avoid the sea, showers, swimming pools, and perfume, as they can damage the gold layer. A cleaning cloth is included with purchases of €200 or more.

Does vermeil wear off?

Yes, over time. Rings get the most wear from friction and everyday activities; necklaces and earrings get less. It’s impossible to say when the silver will show through, since that depends on how the jewelry is worn and cared for.

How does the free first replating work?

Drop off your jewelry at one of our stores or send it to our after-sales service department with proof of purchase. We’ll make sure it’s in good condition and hasn’t already been replated. The first replating of each piece is free, with no time limit, and we cover shipping. Allow about 3 to 6 weeks, and no more than eight weeks. Subsequent replatings are charged: the price depends on the piece’s volume and the price of gold.

Want to see vermeil up close? Discover our 18-karat gold vermeil rings, signet rings, necklaces, and earrings, made in France.